Solar Wiring Diagrams
for Campers, Camper Vans and RV's
On the Images below, most of the components are CLICKABLE. If you are on a desktop, hold ctrl + click to open more info in a new tab.
Below the Image, there is a toggle bar you can click and see a shopping list for the ENTIRE project.
[100w Solar Panels] Amazon Affiliate Link
[Roof Entry Gland] Amazon Affiliate Link
[MC4 Connectors] Amazon Affiliate Link
Battle Born / EXPLORIST.life Collaborative Solar Kit
[50 Amp Breaker] Amazon Affiliate Link
[Positive & Negative Bus Bar] Amazon Affiliate Link
[High Amp Battery Cut Off Switch] Amazon Affiliate Link
[250 Amp ANL Fuse & Holder] Amazon Affiliate Link
[100 Amp Breaker] Amazon Affiliate Link
[DC Fuse Block] Amazon Affiliate Link
[1/4 Inch x 10ga Lugs] Amazon Affiliate Link
[1/4 Inch x 8ga Lugs] Amazon Affiliate Link
[5/16 Inch x 8ga Lugs] Amazon Affiliate Link
[5/16 Inch x 2/0 Lugs] Amazon Affiliate Link
[5/16 Inch x 2ga Lugs] Amazon Affiliate Link
[3/8 Inch x 2/0 Lugs] Amazon Affiliate Link
[#8 x 14ga Lugs] Amazon Affiliate Link
Shore Power Plug
This is simply the wall plug in, in either 50 amp, 30 amp, or 15 amp that you can commonly find at a campground. This icon is also representative of if you were plugging in at somebodies house.
[30 Amp Shore Power Cord] Amazon Affiliate Link
[30 amp extension cord] Amazon Affiliate Link
[30 Amp Exterior Shore Power Input] Amazon Affiliate Link
[15 Amp 110v Breaker] Amazon Affiliate Link
[2 Space 110v Breaker Box] Amazon Affiliate Link
[110v Plug] Amazon Affiliate Link
[110v Outlet Box] Amazon Affiliate Link
[1/4 inch x 2ga Lugs] Amazon Affiliate Link
[Butt Splice Crimp Connector] Amazon Affiliate Link
[12ga Female Spade Terminal] Amazon Affiliate Link
[12v switches] Amazon Affiliate Link
Factory Alternator & Starting Battery
This is your factory alternator and starting battery.
[12v Puck Lights] Amazon Affiliate Link
[Maxxair Vent Fan] Amazon Affiliate Link
[12v Power Outlet] Amazon Affiliate Link
200 Amp Hour, 400 Watt Solar, Inverter, Shore Power & Alternator Parts List (Click to Expand)
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PrintMAIN COMPONENT DISCOUNT BUNDLE
OTHER MAIN COMPONENTS (available on amazon)
- Qty: 4 – 100 watt solar panel
WIRES
- Qty: 50ft – 12/2 Romex
- Qty: 15ft – 10/2 Romex
- Qty: 4ft – Red 2/0 Wire (5ft)
- Qty: 25ft – Red 2/0 Wire (25ft)
- Qty: 4ft – Black 2/0 Wire (5ft)
- Qty: 5ft – 2ga Wire Red (5ft)
- Qty: 5ft – 2ga Wire Black (5ft)
- Qty: 10ft – 8ga Red Wire (10ft)
- Qty: 10ft – 8ga Black Wire (10ft)
- Qty: 50ft – 10ga Red Wire (50ft)
- Qty: 50ft – 10ga Black Wire (50ft)
- Qty: 100ft – 12ga duplex wire (100ft)
- Qty: 1 – 30 Amp Shore Power Extension Cord
- Qty: 1 – 30 Amp Shore Power Cord
CLICK HERE TO ADD ALL WIRES TO YOUR AMAZON CART
LUGS & WIRE TERMINALS
- Qty: 8 – 3/8″ x 2/0 Lug (5pk)
- Qty: 26 – 5/16″ x 2/0 Lugs (15pk)
- Qty: 2 – 5/16″ x 2ga lugs (10pk)
- Qty: 2 – 5/16″ x 8ga lugs (10pk)
- Qty: 4 – 1/4″ x 2ga lug (10pk)
- Qty: 2 – 1/4″ x 8ga lug (10pk)
- Qty: 2 – 1/4″ x 10ga Lug (80pk)
- Qty: 8 – 12ga Female Spade Connector (100pk)
- Qty: 28 – #10 12ga Ring Terminal (80pk)
- Qty: 13 – 12ga Butt Splice Connector (100pk)
CLICK HERE TO ADD ALL LUGS & WIRE TERMINALS TO YOUR AMAZON CART
BREAKERS & FUSES
- Qty: 1 – 100 Amp Breaker
- Qty: 1 – 50 Amp Breaker
- Qty: 1 – 30 Amp Breaker
- Qty: 1 – 110v Breaker Box
- Qty: 1 – 15a 110v Breaker
- Qty: 4 – 250 amp ANL fuse
- Qty: 4 – ANL Fuse Holder
CLICK HERE TO ADD ALL BREAKERS & FUSES TO YOUR AMAZON CART
Misc
- Qty: 1 – DC Distribution Block
- Qty: 1 – Bus Bar
- Qty: 1 – Roof Entry Gland
- Qty: 3 – Battery Shut Off Switch
- Qty: 1 – MC4 Connectors (5pr)
- Qty: 4 – Solar Mounting Feet
- Qty: 2 – Electrical plugin Box
- Qty: 2 – 110v outlet
- Qty: 5 – 12v Switch
CLICK HERE TO ADD ALL MISC ITEMS TO YOUR AMAZON CART
Can you explain more about your ground wires? It appears they connect to the chassis of the van. I have a bus I am working on converting and I am unsure of what and how to ground things. I have a Victron solar controller and inverter similar to what you have in this diagram.
Should I be using the ground lugs on the outside of these?
Where do they connect?
Any advice would be great! Thanks!
The ground wires can be connected to either the chassis of the vehicle OR the bus bar. They are, pretty much, one in the same as even your busbar is connected to chassis ground.
Hey, Nate,
I really appreciate all the work you do and the wiring diagrams! Thank you!
So, I think I figured out that the “green Christmas Tree” thing is only needed if you use lithium batteries. Right?
In your picture above, you show two black wires with yellow ends, by the shore power. Are they two different things? What are they called? Do I need both?
Can I connect to the alternator if I am going to use the Yeti Generator instead of the DIY Solar System? If so, Since I would not use the “Green Christmas Tree” thing, Would I need something else instead, and what would that be?
Sorry, to all those of you who are very smart but I don’t have much knowledge of how anything electric works and I am just learning. So, please be patient with me. Thanks!
The green Battery Isolator is only for lithium batteries and if you are going to be charging directly off the alternator (which you won’t be doing with a Goal Zero Lithium Setup.
To charge from the alternator into a Goal Zero unit, you’ll be looking for a 300w plug-in inverter and an extension cord to your goal zero to charge the same way you would as if you were charging from the wall.
What did you use to create the diagram?
I used photoshop for the actual design and an image map software for the interactive features.
Nice looking diagram. What type of connectors are you using for your lights? Is it a step down connector?
Step down connectors are indeed ideal, but I typically just use butt-splice connectors. They are easier to find, less expensive, and more versatile. Step down connectors are the most-correct, textbook way to do it though. The diagram has been updated to reflect this.
Thanks for the amazing work on the research and for compiling article and excel sheet! It helped me out a lot and clarified a lot of questions I had. However just one thing I still dont quite understand. If yo would wire 4 12V 100w panels in series you would have 100W at 48V, to save space on the roof and get more power wouldn’t it be better to use 2 200W 24V panels? to get 200W at 48V?
Thanks a lot!
If the panels are feeding into a 12v battery bank, the voltage of the panels “doesn’t matter” if you are using an MPPT controller. 400w of panels at 24v, 400w of panels at 48v, and 400w of panels at 18v will all produce the same amount of power at 12v coming into the batteries.
…don’t think of the panels as ’12v panels’ because in all reality, 12v panels are really something like 17v-21v.
This is explained in a bit more in depth here: https://www.explorist.life/diy-campervan-solar/#charge-controller
Howdy ya’ll! Super great digram! Question though, how/where did you tap into the ignition wire for the BIM? I am not able to find ANYTHING that’s remotely helpful.
We used ya’lls diagram to a T and it’s been SO helpful.
Hey Lauren! I can’t remember exactly which wire it was, but you’ll need to splice into really any of the wires that are ‘hot’ when the key is clicked over. A good spot to start looking for this is behind the fuse box with your multimeter. Another good tactic for looking for a ‘switched’ or ‘accessory’ power wire is to find an aftermarket radio install manual and it will typically give you a wire color that will work for the ignition wire.
Where did you guys get the lithium ion battery?
Hey Tim! All of the items on the diagram are clickable so you can click them and find out where to buy them. Here is the direct link to the batteries though: https://battlebornbatteries.com/shop/12v-lifepo4-deep-cycle-battery/?afmc=explorist_bb67
Hello Nate,
First, thanks for all of the work you have put into the solar/electric schematic.
Second, I am in the middle of a Promaster conversion, rough wiring in, insulation in, walls/ceiling in, cabinet boxes in, plumbing rough in in, working on cabinet fronts and finish. When spring comes to Maine I will be doing the electric…solar, shore and engine charging. Three Li batteries, 12 and 120 volt systems.
I am looking to “steal” most of your system details.
I was looking through your parts list for solar/electrical and was surprised to see you call for romex type wire instead of a marine grade stranded wire. I have used stranded wire for the rough in and I am curious as to your thoughts on this. With your “do it right once” mantra I am thinking you would opt for stranded wire as it seems more in keeping with using the best quality materials.
Thoughts?
Hey Thomas!
No problem, glad you’ve found it helpful.
Regarding the solid Romex wiring, I really don’t have a strong opinion in either direction in terms of the 110v wire runs. I know most RV’s use Romex, which is why I leaned in that direction but I don’t have a really really good and compelling reason other than that.
I do know that the Yacht builders code forbids romex for vibration reasons, but that code is significantly more stringent than RV code, but I’ll look more into it and update the diagram as necessary.