This blog post is going to teach you how to add an Inverter, Alternator charging via DC-DC Charger, and Solar charging to your OEM camper or RV that came factory installed with 30 amp shore power hookups.
This diagram features:
- 3000W Inverter Charger
- 400+ Amp Hours of Battery Storage Capacity
- 400W-1200W Solar Array Capacity
- Alternator Charging
- Shore Power Charging/Passthrough
Not quite what you are looking for? Check out other system setups here: https://www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams
Table of Contents
TABLE OF CONTENTS
History of Changes to this Page (Click to Expand)
Published: September 8, 2020 – Any changes made will be listed above.
HOW TO USE THIS PAGE – VIDEO
This orientation video will show you how to best use this page to build your DIY Camper Solar Setup. It’s a quick watch but I think it’s pretty important.
30 Amp OEM Camper Electrical Upgrade Wiring Diagram

30A Camper Solar Parts – Shopping List
The list below is a consolidated parts list for this entire system (Minus the solar charging leg, which is listed at the bottom of this blog post).
For the ‘Quantities’ in the below shopping list, each singular component is listed a quanty per each, wire is listed a quantity of feet, and heat shrink is listed as qty 1 = 2.25″.
For Example:
Qty 1 – Inverter Charger means you need to purchase 1 Inverter Charger
Qty 3 – 4/0 Wire means you need 3 feet of 4/0 wire. This may mean you need to buy 5ft from the product page
Qty 5 heat shrink means you need 5 pieces of 2.25″ heat shrink. This means you’ll need 5 x 2.25″ pieces of heat shrink for a total of 11.25″ of heat shrink.
30A Camper Solar Parts Detail
The section below will tell you where each of the parts from above fits into the wiring diagram. This is quite lengthy, but if you are having trouble seeing the diagram or just want more clarification that the diagram above doesn’t deliver, hopefully this will help:
Solar Charging Parts List & Wiring Diagrams
The following section provides you with several different options for solar charging. The above parts list can remain completely unchanged and the diagram above can remain mostly unchanged except for the alterations noted by the diagrams below, but whatever solar array setup you choose below for your needs, these parts will need to be added to your shopping list. These are broken up by total solar wattage. As a general rule, you want to have twice as many watts of solar as you do amp hours of batteries. So, 300Ah Batteries = 600W solar. 400Ah Batteries = 800W solar. 600Ah Batteries = 1200W of solar. This is just a rule of thumb. Not a law.
400 Watts – 4x100W Solar Panels – 12V Battery Bank (Click to Expand)

600 Watts – 6x100W Solar Panels – 12V Battery Bank (Click to Expand)

600 Watts – 3x200W Solar Panels- 12V Battery Bank (Click to Expand)

800 Watts – 4x200W Solar Panels- 12V Battery Bank (Click to Expand)

1000 Watts – 5x200W Solar Panels- 12V Battery Bank (Click to Expand)

1200 Watts – 4x300W Solar Panels- 12V Battery Bank (Click to Expand)

Typical 30A RV OEM Wiring
Here is a quick look at how MOST stock OEM RV’s are wired:

- The diagram above shows the typical bare-bones OEM RV/Camper with 30A shore power service.
- Shore power flows into the breaker box, powering the breaker box protected by a 30A breaker where 120V AC power is then distributed to the various circuits.
- One circuit is generally the Converter. The converter is usually built into the same enclosure that houses the breaker box (as shown) but is sometimes external. Either way, it’s wired in the same method.
- The converter converts the 120V AC power to 12V DC power which feeds the DC Fuse Block which powers the various DC devices around the camper (Lights, Fans, Etc..).
- From there, a positive and negative wire continues on to the house battery bank; usually two 12v batteries wired in parallel. These wires charge the batteries from shore power, and allow 12v devices to run when not connected to shore power.
- At the batteries, there are usually 2+ additional positive and negative wires heading off under the RV somewhere that are going to power additional DC circuits around the camper. These may be slide-outs, powered leveling jacks, and other ‘chassis’ items like that. These wires will likely have fuses in line to protect these wires coming from the battery.
- One of these wires is also likely the wire coming from the alternator to charge the house battery bank.
- When the camper is NOT plugged in to shore power, all of the 12V DC appliances will run due to them still being connected to the batteries, but the 120V AC appliances will NOT operate because the converter is a one-way-street and will not convert 12V DC back to 120V AC. The charging from alternator is typically very slow (less than 10 amps) and should, generally, not be relied on to provide adequate power for recharging deeply depleted house battery banks.
How to Integrate a DIY Camper Electrical Upgrade with the OEM Wiring
In addition to wiring the components together, here is a breakdown of how the flow of power to the above diagram works.
WIRING THE INVERTER/CHARGER To Shore Power.
When connected to shore power or generator, power flows from shore power (or generator) to the Victron Multiplus inverter charger. This charges the batteries which feeds the DC fuse block and allows 30A shore power passthrough to power the 120v appliances. You will take the 10/3 wire that goes from the shore power inlet to the back of the AC distribution panel and instead, run that wire from the shore power inlet to the input of the Victron Multiplus.
Wiring the Inverter/Charger AC Distribution Panel
The wire from the Multiplus Inverter/Charger to the AC Distribution panel should be replaced from the 10/3 OEM installed wire to a 6/3 wire and the 30A main breaker should be replaced with a 50A main breaker to accommodate for the additional capabilities of the Victron PowerAssist function.
Wiring the Solar Panel Array to your Camper Electrical System
When charging from solar, the solar panels & charge controller charge the batteries. The batteries are connected to the DC fuse block allowing use of the 12v devices around the camper. The Inverter takes the 12V DC power stored in the batteries and converts it to 120V AC power to power the 120V AC items around the camper.
Replacing Stock Camper Batteries with Busbars
A positive and negative busbar take the place of the stock batteries in the stock battery location (assuming that upgrading batteries means you will not be able to store your new battery bank in the stock location). From the Lynx Distributor, power flows to these two busbars where power is then sent to all of the OEM installed components like the DC distribution block, power jacks, slides, etc.
30A Camper Converter
The OEM installed converter must be completely disconnected. It can remain installed, but the wires must be disconnected from both the AC and DC side of the power distribution center. These wires can usually be bundled up and stuffed next to the converter.
30A Camper Alternator Charging
You will likely have a wire charging your OEM batteries from the alternator. This wire will likely be somewhere in the 12 AWG range. This will either run directly from your starting battery isolator if this is a motorhome or from your 7-pin connector if this is a trailer. This needs to be disconnected completely. This diagram uses a 30A DC-DC Charger and the OEM installed wire will be too small. The 6 AWG wire in the diagram will take the place of the OEM wire you are to remove. In the case of a trailer, 6 AWG wire will need to be run all the way to the truck starting battery if alternator charging via DC-DC Charger is desired and disconnected by the hitch by means of an Anderson connector.
Marissa
Monday 16th of January 2023
Hi Nate,
Just found this article after asking a different question regarding the Orion and upgrading the OEM cable from 7-way plug.
Is there anything wrong with skipping the Orion, and hooking up the OEM 10 AWG cable directly to the Lynx Distributor? Seems like I wouldn't be able to charge the system when hooked up to my truck anymore. Assuming I kept, the 10 AWG, I'd likely add a 30A fuse, although the OEM system doesn't currently use a fuse
Thanks, Marissa
Charles
Saturday 14th of January 2023
Hey Nate,
Love Victron components for their quality, system communication and the fact replacements are available worldwide. What about sailboats. Do you consult and design marine systems? Let me know.
Nate Yarbrough
Sunday 15th of January 2023
Campers and boats are very similar, but I don't have any full installs on boats at this time.
Paul
Thursday 15th of December 2022
Hi Nate I just purchased your 30 OEM RV retrofit for my 2023 Class C. I am going to use the LI-BIM 225 instead of the Orion DC to DC charger. How would I integrate that into the diagram? Or is that separate? I Had a system that I had installed as per one of your diagrams on our travel trailer but now have moved to the motorhome. The motorhome is 30amp with no inverter. Thanks for your help
Perry
Tuesday 6th of December 2022
Bought the 30A OEM install diagram. I'd love to pay for a little consulting. I have the 110 and 12v oem schematics for the 2015 sprinter RV. We have Renogy equipment and batteries (bought prior to finding your sight). If I send the information on the renogy equipment and schematics of the rv, can you come up with an install schematic? As I said, more than willing to pay for consulting.
Nate Yarbrough
Tuesday 6th of December 2022
It would be a better use of your money to upgrade to Victron components instead of using Renogy + paying my hourly consulting fee to make a system. It would be cheaper to go the Victron route.
Peter Thomas
Monday 7th of November 2022
Hi Nate! First off thank you for all the great info, I've learned a lot. I do have a question.
On our 2022 travel trailer, the OE converter is not lithium compatible. I'm still assessing our usage needs, so I'm not ready to go full build with an inverter/charger just yet. I was wondering if its OK to disconnect the OE converter and install a Victron BlueSmart charger in its place? This way I could have a couple 12v Battleborns installed and have correct charging profiles for the battery chemistry.
Also the cost between a lithium-compatible converter vs the Victron BlueSmart is surprising close - I'd rather have the features of the Victron. I'm curious your thoughts on this approach as a short-term solution?