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30A OEM RV Solar Retrofit Wiring Diagram

30A OEM RV Solar Retrofit Wiring Diagram

This blog post is going to teach you how to add an Inverter, Alternator charging via DC-DC Charger, and Solar charging to your OEM camper or RV that came factory installed with 30 amp shore power hookups.

This diagram features:

  • 3000W Inverter Charger
  • 400+ Amp Hours of Battery Storage Capacity
  • 400W-1200W Solar Array Capacity
  • Alternator Charging
  • Shore Power Charging/Passthrough

Not quite what you are looking for? Check out other system setups here: https://www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams

TABLE OF CONTENTS

History of Changes to this Page (Click to Expand)

Published: September 8, 2020 – Any changes made will be listed above.

HOW TO USE THIS PAGE – VIDEO

This orientation video will show you how to best use this page to build your DIY Camper Solar Setup. It’s a quick watch but I think it’s pretty important.

30 Amp OEM Camper Electrical Upgrade Wiring Diagram

30A Camper Solar Parts – Shopping List

The list below is a consolidated parts list for this entire system (Minus the solar charging leg, which is listed at the bottom of this blog post).

For the ‘Quantities’ in the below shopping list, each singular component is listed a quanty per each, wire is listed a quantity of feet, and heat shrink is listed as qty 1 = 2.25″.

For Example:

Qty 1 – Inverter Charger means you need to purchase 1 Inverter Charger

Qty 3 – 4/0 Wire means you need 3 feet of 4/0 wire. This may mean you need to buy 5ft from the product page

Qty 5 heat shrink means you need 5 pieces of 2.25″ heat shrink. This means you’ll need 5 x 2.25″ pieces of heat shrink for a total of 11.25″ of heat shrink.

ProductQtyLink
1/2" Black Heat Shrink10
1/2" Red Heat Shrink6
100 Amp MEGA Fuse1
100Ah Battle Born Lithium Batteries6
3/4" Black Heat Shrink18
3/4" Red Heat Shrink16
4-Post Busbar1
4/0 Black Wire25
4/0 Red Wire15
4/0 x 3/8" Wire Lug2
4/0 x 5/16" Wire Lug32
400 Amp ANL Fuse1
400 Amp MEGA Fuse1
50A Square D HOM AC Breaker1
6 AWG Black Wire31
6 AWG Ferrule9
6 AWG Red Wire30
6 AWG Triplex Wire10
6 AWG x 5/16" Wire Lug7
60 Amp MEGA Fuse1
60 Amp Terminal Fuse1
Heavy Duty ANL Fuse Holder1
Lynx Adapter2
Lynx Distributor1
Master Disconnect1
MultiPlus 12/3000/120-50 120V VE.Bus1
Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30A (360W) Isolated DC-DC charger1
Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor1

30A Camper Solar Parts Detail

The section below will tell you where each of the parts from above fits into the wiring diagram. This is quite lengthy, but if you are having trouble seeing the diagram or just want more clarification that the diagram above doesn’t deliver, hopefully this will help:

Column AColumn BColumn C

Battery Bank Wiring

This section contains all of the parts necessary to wire the battery bank together. These products include the batteries as well as the related wiring parts that you will need to make the battery to battery connections.
ProductQtyLink
100Ah Battle Born Lithium Batteries6
4/0 Red Wire5
4/0 Black Wire5
4/0 x 5/16" Wire Lug20
3/4" Red Heat Shrink10
3/4" Black Heat Shrink10

Battery Bank to Lynx Distributor

This section contains all of the parts necessary to wire the battery bank to the main DC distribution busbar. The busbar itself as well as the shunt for the battery monitor and fuse mounted inside to the busbar protecting the positive wire from overcurrent can be found in this section. The busbar is essentially an extension of the battery terminals and allows you to deliver power where it needs to go and houses the fuses necessary to protect the wires leaving the busbar. The Battery monitor allows you to know how full your batteries are, know how much power you are actively gaining or losing, and see the historical data of your power usage.
ProductQtyLink
Lynx Distributor1
Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor1
4/0 Red Wire5
4/0 Black Wire5
4/0 x 5/16" Wire Lug4
4/0 x 3/8" Wire Lug2
3/4" Red Heat Shrink4
3/4" Black Heat Shrink2
400 Amp ANL Fuse1
Heavy Duty ANL Fuse Holder1
Lynx Adapter2
Master Disconnect1

Busbar to Inverter/Charger

This section contains the Inverter Charger and all of the parts necessary to wire the Inverter Charger to the Positive and Negative busbars. The Inverter Charger allows you to re-charge your batteries from 'shore power' and also converts the 12v DC power stored in your batteries to 120V AC power like you'd find in your standard household wall outlet.
ProductQtyLink
MultiPlus 12/3000/120-50 120V VE.Bus1
4/0 Red Wire5
4/0 Black Wire5
4/0 Black Wire5
4/0 x 5/16" Wire Lug6
3/4" Red Heat Shrink2
3/4" Black Heat Shrink4
400 Amp MEGA Fuse1

Busbar to B2B Charger

This section contains the battery to battery charger as well as the wiring that you need to connect the battery to battery charger to the positive and negative busbars. This will allow you to charge your house battery bank from the engine alternator.
ProductQtyLink
Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30A (360W) Isolated DC-DC charger1
6 AWG Red Wire5
6 AWG Black Wire5
6 AWG x 5/16" Wire Lug2
6 AWG Ferrule2
1/2" Red Heat Shrink2
1/2" Black Heat Shrink2
60 Amp MEGA Fuse1

B2B Charger to Alternator

This section contains all of the wiring necessary to connect the battery to battery charger to the starting battery. This will allow you to charge your house battery bank from the engine alternator.
ProductQtyLink
6 AWG Red Wire15
6 AWG Black Wire16
6 AWG x 5/16" Wire Lug1
6 AWG Ferrule1
1/2" Red Heat Shrink2
60 Amp Terminal Fuse1

Busbar to DC Fuse Block

This section contains the DC fuse block (which is inside of the AC-DC distribution panel) as well as the wires to connect it to the main DC distribution busbars. This will allow you to deliver power to the DC Fuse block for small branch circuits such as lights, fans, usb outlets, etc..
ProductQtyLink
4-Post Busbar1
6 AWG Red Wire10
6 AWG Black Wire10
6 AWG x 5/16" Wire Lug4
1/2" Red Heat Shrink2
1/2" Black Heat Shrink2
100 Amp MEGA Fuse1

Busbar to Chassis Ground

This section includes the parts necessary to allow you to ground your negative busbar to the chassis ground. The chassis ground will be connected to the negative busbar on one side and the other side can go to a factory chassis ground or simply anywhere good metal to metal contact can be made between the wire lug and the bare metal of the body or frame of the camper.
ProductQtyLink
4/0 Black Wire5
4/0 x 5/16" Wire Lug2
3/4" Black Heat Shrink2

Inverter Charger to AC Distribution

This section includes the wiring necessary to connect the inverter charger to the AC side of the AC-DC power distribution panel listed in an earlier section. A quick note... 6/3 stranded wire is used here because although our shore power is 30A max, which 10 gauge wire is adequate for, the PowerAssist function of the Victron Multiplus Inverter Charger can add up to 3000w of battery power to shore power in the event that more power than the shore power can provide is needed. This much power coming from the Inverter/Charger requires 6 gauge wire feeding a 50A main breaker in the AC distribution panel. Also... the 6/3 w/ ground wire you will find at your local hardware store will very likely have 4 wires in it, which is unnecessary. The link for 6 AWG Triplex Wire below has 3 wires inside, which is correct for the application.
ProductQtyLink
6 AWG Triplex Wire10
6 AWG Ferrule6
1/2" Black Heat Shrink6
50A Square D HOM AC Breaker1

Solar Charging Parts List & Wiring Diagrams

The following section provides you with several different options for solar charging. The above parts list can remain completely unchanged and the diagram above can remain mostly unchanged except for the alterations noted by the diagrams below, but whatever solar array setup you choose below for your needs, these parts will need to be added to your shopping list. These are broken up by total solar wattage. As a general rule, you want to have twice as many watts of solar as you do amp hours of batteries. So, 300Ah Batteries = 600W solar. 400Ah Batteries = 800W solar. 600Ah Batteries = 1200W of solar. This is just a rule of thumb. Not a law.

400 Watts – 4x100W Solar Panels – 12V Battery Bank (Click to Expand)
Column AColumn BColumn C
This section contains all of the parts necessary to wire 4x100w solar panels into your camper electrical system as shown in the diagram above and must be added to the master shopping list at the top of this blog post. There are three options for solar panels in this list and they will all work well for this particular diagram. Choose your solar panels based on their physical dimensions and which ones work with your own specific setup. The dimensions are listed on their respective product pages. This solar array is managed by the SmartSolar MPPT 100/30 and remaining products include the wires, solar disconnect breaker, solar disconnect breaker box, lugs, ferrules, heat shrink and everything else needed to make the full solar panel array to busbar assembly. This parts list does not include means to attach the solar panels to the roof as that veries GREATLY from install to install.
ProductQtyLink
100w Rich Solar Panels4
100w NewPowa Solar Panels4
100w Renogy Solar Panels4
SmartSolar MPPT 100/301
10 AWG Red Wire30
10 AWG Black Wire30
MC4 Connectors6
2-to-1 MC4 Combiner1
Roof Entry Gland1
Solar Disconnect Breaker1
Din Rail Breaker Box1
10 AWG Ferrule6
6 AWG Ferrule2
6 AWG Red Wire2
6 AWG Black Wire4
6 AWG x 5/16" Wire Lug3
6 AWG x 1/4" Wire Lug1
1/4" Red Heat Shrink3
1/4" Black Heat Shrink3
1/2" Red Heat Shrink2
1/2" Black Heat Shrink4
50 Amp MEGA Fuse1
600 Watts – 6x100W Solar Panels – 12V Battery Bank (Click to Expand)
Column AColumn BColumn C
This section contains all of the parts necessary to wire 6x100w solar panels into your camper electrical system as shown in the diagram above and must be added to the master shopping list at the top of this blog post. There are three options for solar panels in this list and they will all work well for this particular diagram. Choose your solar panels based on their physical dimensions and which ones work with your own specific setup. The dimensions are listed on their respective product pages. This solar array is managed by the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100|50 and remaining products include the wires, solar disconnect breaker, solar disconnect breaker box, lugs, ferrules, heat shrink and everything else needed to make the full solar panel array to busbar assembly. This parts list does not include means to attach the solar panels to the roof as that veries GREATLY from install to install.
ProductQtyLink
100w Rich Solar Panels4
100w NewPowa Solar Panels4
100w Renogy Solar Panels4
Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100|501
10 AWG Red Wire30
10 AWG Black Wire30
MC4 Connectors8
2-to-1 MC4 Combiner1
Roof Entry Gland1
Solar Disconnect Breaker1
Din Rail Breaker Box1
10 AWG Ferrule6
6 AWG Ferrule2
6 AWG Red Wire2
6 AWG Black Wire4
6 AWG x 5/16" Wire Lug3
6 AWG x 1/4" Wire Lug1
1/4" Red Heat Shrink3
1/4" Black Heat Shrink3
1/2" Red Heat Shrink2
1/2" Black Heat Shrink4
80 Amp MEGA Fuse1
600 Watts – 3x200W Solar Panels- 12V Battery Bank (Click to Expand)
Column AColumn BColumn C
This section contains all of the parts necessary to wire 3x200w solar panels into your camper electrical system as shown in the diagram above and must be added to the master shopping list at the top of this blog post. There are two options for solar panels in this list and they will all work well for this particular diagram. Choose your solar panels based on their physical dimensions and which ones work with your own specific setup. The dimensions are listed on their respective product pages. This solar array is managed by the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100|50 and remaining products include the wires, solar disconnect breaker, solar disconnect breaker box, lugs, ferrules, heat shrink and everything else needed to make the full solar panel array to busbar assembly. This parts list does not include means to attach the solar panels to the roof as that veries GREATLY from install to install.
ProductQtyLink
200w Rich Solar Panels3
200w NewPowa Solar Panels3
Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100|501
10 AWG Red Wire30
10 AWG Black Wire30
MC4 Connectors4
Roof Entry Gland1
Solar Disconnect Breaker1
Din Rail Breaker Box1
10 AWG Ferrule6
6 AWG Ferrule2
6 AWG Red Wire2
6 AWG Black Wire4
6 AWG x 5/16" Wire Lug3
6 AWG x 1/4" Wire Lug1
1/4" Red Heat Shrink3
1/4" Black Heat Shrink3
1/2" Red Heat Shrink2
1/2" Black Heat Shrink4
80 Amp MEGA Fuse1
800 Watts – 4x200W Solar Panels- 12V Battery Bank (Click to Expand)
Column AColumn BColumn C
This section contains all of the parts necessary to wire 4x200w solar panels into your camper electrical system as shown in the diagram above and must be added to the master shopping list at the top of this blog post. There are two options for solar panels in this list and they will all work well for this particular diagram. Choose your solar panels based on their physical dimensions and which ones work with your own specific setup. The dimensions are listed on their respective product pages. This solar array is managed by the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150|85 and remaining products include the wires, solar disconnect breaker, solar disconnect breaker box, lugs, ferrules, heat shrink and everything else needed to make the full solar panel array to busbar assembly. This parts list does not include means to attach the solar panels to the roof as that veries GREATLY from install to install.
ProductQtyLink
200w Rich Solar Panels4
200w NewPowa Solar Panels4
Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150|851
10 AWG Red Wire30
10 AWG Black Wire30
MC4 Connectors4
Roof Entry Gland1
Solar Disconnect Breaker1
Din Rail Breaker Box1
10 AWG Ferrule6
2 AWG Ferrule2
2 AWG Red Wire2
2 AWG Black Wire4
2 AWG x 5/16" Wire Lug3
2 AWG x 1/4" Wire Lug1
1/4" Red Heat Shrink3
1/4" Black Heat Shrink3
3/4" Red Heat Shrink2
3/4" Black Heat Shrink4
100 Amp MEGA Fuse1
1000 Watts – 5x200W Solar Panels- 12V Battery Bank (Click to Expand)
Column AColumn BColumn C
This section contains all of the parts necessary to wire 5x200w solar panels into your camper electrical system as shown in the diagram above and must be added to the master shopping list at the top of this blog post. There are two options for solar panels in this list and they will all work well for this particular diagram. Choose your solar panels based on their physical dimensions and which ones work with your own specific setup. The dimensions are listed on their respective product pages. This solar array is managed by the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150|100 and remaining products include the wires, solar disconnect breaker, solar disconnect breaker box, lugs, ferrules, heat shrink and everything else needed to make the full solar panel array to busbar assembly. This parts list does not include means to attach the solar panels to the roof as that veries GREATLY from install to install.
ProductQtyLink
200w Rich Solar Panels5
200w NewPowa Solar Panels5
Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150|1001
10 AWG Red Wire30
10 AWG Black Wire30
MC4 Connectors6
Roof Entry Gland1
Solar Disconnect Breaker1
Din Rail Breaker Box1
10 AWG Ferrule6
2 AWG Ferrule2
2 AWG Red Wire2
2 AWG Black Wire4
2 AWG x 5/16" Wire Lug3
2 AWG x 1/4" Wire Lug1
1/4" Red Heat Shrink3
1/4" Black Heat Shrink3
3/4" Red Heat Shrink2
3/4" Black Heat Shrink4
150 Amp MEGA Fuse1

1200 Watts – 4x300W Solar Panels- 12V Battery Bank (Click to Expand)
Column AColumn BColumn C
This section contains all of the parts necessary to wire 4x300w solar panels into your camper electrical system as shown in the diagram above and must be added to the master shopping list at the top of this blog post. There are two options for solar panels in this list and they will all work well for this particular diagram. Choose your solar panels based on their physical dimensions and which ones work with your own specific setup. The dimensions are listed on their respective product pages. This solar array is managed by the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150|100 and remaining products include the wires, solar disconnect breaker, solar disconnect breaker box, lugs, ferrules, heat shrink and everything else needed to make the full solar panel array to busbar assembly. This parts list does not include means to attach the solar panels to the roof as that veries GREATLY from install to install.
ProductQtyLink
300w Renogy Solar Panels4
Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150|1001
10 AWG Red Wire30
10 AWG Black Wire30
MC4 Connectors7
2-to-1 MC4 Combiner1
Roof Entry Gland1
Solar Disconnect Breaker1
Din Rail Breaker Box1
10 AWG Ferrule6
2 AWG Ferrule2
2 AWG Red Wire2
2 AWG Black Wire4
2 AWG x 5/16" Wire Lug3
2 AWG x 1/4" Wire Lug1
1/4" Red Heat Shrink3
1/4" Black Heat Shrink3
3/4" Red Heat Shrink2
3/4" Black Heat Shrink4
150 Amp MEGA Fuse1
15A MC4 Fuse2

Typical 30A RV OEM Wiring

Here is a quick look at how MOST stock OEM RV’s are wired:

  • The diagram above shows the typical bare-bones OEM RV/Camper with 30A shore power service.
  • Shore power flows into the breaker box, powering the breaker box protected by a 30A breaker where 120V AC power is then distributed to the various circuits.
  • One circuit is generally the Converter. The converter is usually built into the same enclosure that houses the breaker box (as shown) but is sometimes external. Either way, it’s wired in the same method.
  • The converter converts the 120V AC power to 12V DC power which feeds the DC Fuse Block which powers the various DC devices around the camper (Lights, Fans, Etc..).
  • From there, a positive and negative wire continues on to the house battery bank; usually two 12v batteries wired in parallel. These wires charge the batteries from shore power, and allow 12v devices to run when not connected to shore power.
  • At the batteries, there are usually 2+ additional positive and negative wires heading off under the RV somewhere that are going to power additional DC circuits around the camper. These may be slide-outs, powered leveling jacks, and other ‘chassis’ items like that. These wires will likely have fuses in line to protect these wires coming from the battery.
  • One of these wires is also likely the wire coming from the alternator to charge the house battery bank.
  • When the camper is NOT plugged in to shore power, all of the 12V DC appliances will run due to them still being connected to the batteries, but the 120V AC appliances will NOT operate because the converter is a one-way-street and will not convert 12V DC back to 120V AC. The charging from alternator is typically very slow (less than 10 amps) and should, generally, not be relied on to provide adequate power for recharging deeply depleted house battery banks.

How to Integrate a DIY Camper Electrical Upgrade with the OEM Wiring

In addition to wiring the components together, here is a breakdown of how the flow of power to the above diagram works.

WIRING THE INVERTER/CHARGER To Shore Power.

When connected to shore power or generator, power flows from shore power (or generator) to the Victron Multiplus inverter charger. This charges the batteries which feeds the DC fuse block and allows 30A shore power passthrough to power the 120v appliances. You will take the 10/3 wire that goes from the shore power inlet to the back of the AC distribution panel and instead, run that wire from the shore power inlet to the input of the Victron Multiplus.

Wiring the Inverter/Charger AC Distribution Panel

The wire from the Multiplus Inverter/Charger to the AC Distribution panel should be replaced from the 10/3 OEM installed wire to a 6/3 wire and the 30A main breaker should be replaced with a 50A main breaker to accommodate for the additional capabilities of the Victron PowerAssist function.

Wiring the Solar Panel Array to your Camper Electrical System

When charging from solar, the solar panels & charge controller charge the batteries. The batteries are connected to the DC fuse block allowing use of the 12v devices around the camper. The Inverter takes the 12V DC power stored in the batteries and converts it to 120V AC power to power the 120V AC items around the camper.

Replacing Stock Camper Batteries with Busbars

A positive and negative busbar take the place of the stock batteries in the stock battery location (assuming that upgrading batteries means you will not be able to store your new battery bank in the stock location). From the Lynx Distributor, power flows to these two busbars where power is then sent to all of the OEM installed components like the DC distribution block, power jacks, slides, etc.

30A Camper Converter

The OEM installed converter must be completely disconnected. It can remain installed, but the wires must be disconnected from both the AC and DC side of the power distribution center. These wires can usually be bundled up and stuffed next to the converter.

30A Camper Alternator Charging

You will likely have a wire charging your OEM batteries from the alternator. This wire will likely be somewhere in the 12 AWG range. This will either run directly from your starting battery isolator if this is a motorhome or from your 7-pin connector if this is a trailer. This needs to be disconnected completely. This diagram uses a 30A DC-DC Charger and the OEM installed wire will be too small. The 6 AWG wire in the diagram will take the place of the OEM wire you are to remove. In the case of a trailer, 6 AWG wire will need to be run all the way to the truck starting battery if alternator charging via DC-DC Charger is desired and disconnected by the hitch by means of an Anderson connector.


Douglas Birley

Thursday 25th of November 2021

Hey. I have a question about the isolated B2B charger. I am going to use the 30A one from Victron and my van battery is 6m away from where we want to put the B2B charger. When doing the distance to and from the van battery and the B2B and putting it into your calculator it comes up saying that it needs a wire size bigger than the Orion can handle. Does this mean I need to move the Orion closer to the battery or do I only measure the distance from the battery to the Orion and don’t calculate the distance back?

Thanks, Doug

Nate Yarbrough

Wednesday 1st of December 2021

Use the 6AWG. If there is 'excessive' voltage drop; the orion will make up for it (since the device is, by nature, a voltage booster).

Lore Longley

Tuesday 23rd of November 2021

Maybe this is a stupid question but what is the difference between a setup like this and using a Yeti 6000 goal zero portable power station for the whole RV?

I'm building a tiny house in a school bus and I am just now getting started on the electrical planning. I'm ripping out the floor in the bus right now so I have a bit of time before I need to have the electrical Figured Out.

Nate Yarbrough

Wednesday 1st of December 2021

Systems like these are a permanent solution meant to be built-in. Systems like the Goal Zero are great, but are more of a temporary solution. Sort of like building a detached garage for your house vs a $400 shed from home depot.

Paul Cervone

Monday 8th of November 2021

Hi Nate, love all your videos and blog articles. I purchased your 30A OEM RV Solar Retrofit Diagram to help along with your corresponding blog post. I am in the process of adding 800w of solar (4x200 RICH Solar panels), VE SmartSolar 100/50 MPPT charger, VE Multiplus 3000, VE Lynx Distributor, and I'm using 2 206ah SOK lithiums. I have ordered your Lnyx adapters and followed your other recommendations for all fuses and shutoff, etc. I am not adding a B2B charger at this time but may in the future. I have a few questions, if I may.

1. I bought the pair of Lynx Adapters but on the diagram it looks like a similar adapter is used on the ground connection for the Multiplus where the 4/0 ground wire from the Lynx connects and then sends off a 2awg ground wire to the MPPT charger. Do I need to order something for there or can I just attach both lugs on that ground post?

2. I'm totally confused by the Wiring the "Busbar to DC Fuse Block" section. I assume when you say "Busbar" you're referring to the Lynx? I'm wondering why I need that? I didn't run any wire for that because I did run a new 6awg wire from the OEM location on the trailer frame (where the original batteries where attached) to the Lynx. My assumption was that I was providing "new" power back to the original location via the new run of 6awg wire and the DC Fuse Block would then get it's power supply as it did from the factory. Is this wrong? I'm sure hoping I don't need to drop the belly covering again to run new wire.

3. Finally, I also don't quite follow why I need to disconnect the charging wire from my truck via the 7-pin connector. What is new in my system that requires me to do this? Will something be damaged if I leave it alone? I'm just not understanding what this is all about.

Thanks so much for everything Nate. I watch all your videos whether they relate to my situation or not just because they are so interesting.

Paul

Nate Yarbrough

Wednesday 1st of December 2021

1: The two lugs on the equipment ground stud on the Multiplus are simply stacked on top of each other.

2: Correct (If I'm understanding you correctly). Busbar inside of the Lynx Distributor.

3: Nothing will be damaged; but the 7A your truck charges your camper at may 'override' the 800W of solar on your roof that could be potentially charging at 50a.

felix

Sunday 26th of September 2021

hi , i m canadien and i just bought the schema

can you tell me why the mega fuse arent the same in the shop list and the schema

thx

Arthur Schillinger

Thursday 23rd of September 2021

Thanks for all of the great content! Extremely helpful.

Question - how did you size the fuse that's between the batteries and the kill switch? I see you have a 400A fuse between the batteries and the kill switch. I always thought that fuse should be based off the energy coming into the system. So if I only have 300W of solar with the charge controller as well as a 60A DC/DC charger then would my fuse need to be 100-120A? Or is 400A fuse the correct way to go? Or am I missing something all together?

Thank You!