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Best Fuses & Fuse Holders for a DIY Camper Electrical Install

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Best Fuses & Fuse Holders for a DIY Camper Electrical Install

Fuses are a vital piece of safety equipment in any electrical system. Fuses protect the wire from an overcurrent event such as an electrical short or from trying to push too much power through too small of a wire. This blog post will teach you what type of fuse you need for your DIY camper electrical install.

Cheap vs Expensive Fuses

In the past, I’ve recommended very inexpensive fuses. They worked for a while and many people had good luck with them. Recently (since February 2020), both myself and the tech support team at Battle Born Batteries who I work closely with have seen an increasing number of quality control issues on these non-name-brand fuses that are so common on Amazon. These problems revolve largely around the fuse getting too hot under normal use. This would cause the fuse holder to melt, loosen, and cause the system to stop working.

So… if you wish to save some money and test your luck with these inexpensive fuses and fuse holders; that is your prerogative; but I can no longer recommend “no-name” fuses and fuse holders on So, the following list will include only fuses and holders from Blue Sea, Littelfuse, Bussman, Eaton, Spartan Power or similar that have, at least some kind of testing agency certification or code compliancy recognition (UL, ABYC, ROhS, etc).

How Big of a Fuse do I Need for [My Device]

This blog post is more about the various TYPES of fuses and not necessarily how to choose the sizes. If you want a more in-depth blog post & video that will teach you how to size a fuse, you can click here for the specific blog post on that topic:

Best Fuses & Fuse Holders for a DIY Camper Electrical Install

This list will show you the various types of fuses you will encounter during your DIY camper electrical install and teach you which ones are right for what purposes.

Using Mismatched Solar Panel Sizes
50A OEM RV Solar Retrofit Wiring Diagram

Michael E Thornton

Wednesday 18th of November 2020

The wiring diagrams I can see on my Chromebook and Lenovo all-in-one are not interactive. How can I access those?


Monday 9th of November 2020

I just reviewed your 'yeti vs DIY' Video ( The DIY route is a bit intimidating and the van is not for full time use. Do you have a video or blog post on how to conduct an energy requirement audit before the conversion? I mostly know the components that i want, but still not sure how to put it all together. TIA


Friday 30th of October 2020

Hello Nate - I watched a good video by you on how to crimp battery lugs and ring terminals. In the video you mention that you have a blog post about procuring good quality heat shrink terminals. I've searched all the blogs I could find by you but couldn't find any blog posts on heat shrink terminal recommendations / procurement. I have used (and liked) 'Ancor' heat shrink terminals but they are very expensive and difficult to obtain.

Please inform me (or send me a link); What heat shrink terminals do you like and where do you get them?

Thanking you in advance for your help, David Osborne

chris white

Thursday 8th of October 2020

Love your content and easy instructions.. question. If I'm running a DC appliance to my WFCO WF-8930 distribution panel, do I need to bring the negative wire from my DC appliance back to my distribution panel, can I just ground the negative wire to metal (sheet metal) somewhere close to save on copper wire? assuming the Lithium batts are already chassis grounded and assuming I sand off any paint so that I have a good ground?

Nate Yarbrough

Friday 9th of October 2020

Ideally, yes. You should bring the negative wire back to the fuse block. This is the proper way to do it.

Jon Leach

Tuesday 6th of October 2020

This is why I try to stay away from anything Chinese, not just fuses but inverters, charge controllers and batteries!

Nate Yarbrough

Tuesday 6th of October 2020

Obviously you can do whatever you like, but avoiding products for a specific country of manufacturer is not a good metric for determining if a product is good or poor quality. For example, which of the following would be a more quality item?

A product that is designed in the USA; carries a UL listing, but manufactured in China.


A product that does not carry any kind of UL listing or certifications but is made in Indonesia.

The product with the UL listing that is manufactured in China will likely be a higher quality product.

But if the only metric of finding high quality products was 'avoiding chinese products' would say that the non-UL listed product would be higher quality simply because it was not made in China.